Technique · Updated May 2026

How to Increase and Decrease in Crochet: The Complete Shaping Guide

Increasing and decreasing are the fundamental shaping techniques that turn flat rectangles into curves, tapers, and three-dimensional forms. Every hat, amigurumi, sweater, sock, and shaped item uses increases to widen the fabric and decreases to narrow it. Understanding both — and where to place them — is the single biggest skill upgrade a beginner crocheter can make.

By Kelley Delano, Editor & Lead Author · Published 22 Mar 2026 · Updated 11 May 2026 · 9 min read

🎯 Key takeaway

To increase: work 2 stitches into the same stitch. To decrease: combine 2 stitches into 1. For amigurumi, use the invisible decrease — work through front loops only of both stitches, yarn over and pull through, complete normally. Always distribute increases and decreases evenly across the row or round to prevent puckering or uneven shaping.

Standard increase methods

Basic increase (inc)

The most common increase across all crochet contexts. Work two stitches into the same stitch. That is it. If the pattern uses single crochet, work 2 sc in one stitch — that's "1 inc." For double crochet, work 2 dc in one stitch. The result: one extra stitch in the row count, and a slightly bulkier point at the increase location.

Chain-space increase (for shells and patterns)

For shell stitches or any pattern that uses multiple stitches grouped in one space, increases are sometimes worked into chain spaces from the row below. The pattern usually specifies, e.g. "(2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in corner space."

Invisible increase (amigurumi)

Used specifically for amigurumi where a visible increase looks bumpy. Make 2 sc in the same stitch, but work the second stitch through the BACK loop only. The increase becomes less prominent because the second stitch sits behind the first rather than alongside it. Creates smoother shaping for stuffed toys.

Decrease methods

Standard decrease (sc2tog / dc2tog)

For single crochet (sc2tog):

Insert hook in next stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop (2 loops on hook).
Insert hook in the following stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook).
Yarn over, pull through all 3 loops.

For double crochet (dc2tog):

Yarn over, insert hook in next stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through 2 loops (2 loops on hook).
Yarn over, insert hook in following stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through 2 loops (3 loops on hook).
Yarn over, pull through all 3 loops.

Standard decreases leave a slight gap or notch at the decrease point — fine for blanket and garment edges, less ideal for the smooth surface of amigurumi.

Invisible decrease (inv dec)

The professional amigurumi technique. Eliminates the gap that standard decrease leaves.

Insert hook through the FRONT loop only of the next stitch (1 extra loop on hook = 2 total).
Insert hook through the FRONT loop only of the following stitch (2 extra loops on hook = 3 total).
Yarn over, pull through both front loops only (back to 2 loops on hook).
Yarn over, pull through both remaining loops.

The result is a smooth, nearly invisible decrease perfect for amigurumi. Slightly slower than the standard decrease but visually much better.

Even distribution across rows

When a pattern says "increase 6 evenly across the row," you need to calculate where to place each increase. Formula: divide total stitches by number of increases. If you have 30 stitches and need 6 increases, 30 ÷ 6 = 5 — so increase every 5th stitch. For decreases, divide and subtract 1 to account for the decrease stitch itself.

Total stitches	Increases needed	Pattern
24, need 30	6	3 sc, inc × 6
30, need 36	6	4 sc, inc × 6
36, need 42	6	5 sc, inc × 6
42, need 48	6	6 sc, inc × 6
48, need 54	6	7 sc, inc × 6
36, decrease to 30	6 dec	3 sc, dec × 6
30, decrease to 24	6 dec	2 sc, dec × 6

Even distribution prevents puckering. If you place 6 increases all in the first half of the row, that half ruffles while the second half stays flat — and the resulting fabric is unusable.

Shaping applications by project type

Flat circles (coasters, doilies): 6 increases per round in sc, 12 per round in dc. The "6-12-18-24 rule."
Hat crowns: increase 6 per round until you reach head circumference, then work even rounds for the height.
Amigurumi sphere: increase 6 per round for first 5 rounds (to ~30 sts), work even for 5-7 rounds, decrease 6 per round for 5 rounds. Use invisible decrease throughout.
Garment waist shaping: decrease evenly at sides to taper from hip to waist; increase to flare to bust. Distribute over 4-8 rows for gentle shaping.
Sleeve cap: decrease aggressively for first 1-2 rows (to bind off shoulder shape), then gradually for remaining rows.
Triangular shawl: increase at edges (2 per row) and/or centre (2 per row) every right-side row.

Troubleshooting shaped pieces

Puckering / ruffling at one area: increases not evenly distributed. Recount and replace; spread increases across the entire row.
Visible gap at decrease points: using standard decrease in amigurumi. Switch to invisible decrease.
Hat cups upward: not enough increases per round in the crown. Add increases or switch to a smaller hook (which makes existing increases relatively more impactful).
Cone instead of sphere in amigurumi: increased too aggressively or too slowly. Re-read pattern carefully; the increase rate is precise.
Asymmetric shaping in garments: usually because increases or decreases are placed differently on each side. Mark the first stitch of every row so both edges shape identically.

Frequently asked

Direct answers.

How do I increase in crochet?

Work 2 stitches into the same stitch. For single crochet, that's 2 sc in one stitch. For double crochet, 2 dc in one stitch. Each increase adds one stitch to your row count. Use evenly distributed across the row for smooth shaping (don't bunch them all in one area).

What's the difference between standard and invisible decrease?

Standard sc2tog: insert hook in next stitch, pull up loop, repeat in following stitch, yarn over, pull through all 3 loops. Leaves a small visible gap. Invisible decrease: same process but only through the FRONT loops of both stitches before the final yarn-over. The result is gap-free, perfect for amigurumi where surface smoothness matters.

How do I distribute increases evenly across a row?

Divide total stitches by number of increases needed. If you have 30 stitches and need 6 increases, 30/6 = 5 — increase every 5th stitch. The pattern is *(n-1) sc, inc* repeated, where n is the divisor. For 6 increases in 30 stitches: *4 sc, inc* × 6 (which produces 5 stitches per repeat, 6 repeats × 5 = 30, plus 6 extra increase stitches = 36 final).

When should I use invisible decrease?

In amigurumi and any project where surface smoothness matters more than speed. The invisible decrease takes 20-30% longer per stitch than standard decrease but produces a near-invisible result. For blankets and garments where the decrease is at an edge or hidden, standard decrease is fine.

How do I know how many increases to do per round in a circle?

For a flat circle in single crochet: 6 increases per round, every round (the 6-12-18-24 rule). For double crochet: 12 per round. Fewer per round and the circle cups upward; more and it ruffles. The exact number depends on stitch height — taller stitches need more increases.

Why does my hat look like a cone instead of a flat-topped crown?

Not enough increases per round in the crown. For a flat-topped crown, you need consistent 6 increases per round (in sc) until you reach the head circumference. If you're increasing only 4 or 5 per round, the fabric pulls upward into a cone shape. Add more increases or switch to a smaller hook to make existing increases proportionally more dramatic.

Sources & further reading

Craft Yarn Council — Standard Yarn Weight System
Crochet Guild of America (CGOA) — professional standards
Edie Eckman, The Crochet Answer Book (Storey Publishing) — technique reference
Clara Parkes, The Knitter's Book of Yarn (Potter Craft) — fibre properties

June Gilbank — amigurumi shaping reference

Kelley Delano

Editor & Lead Author

Kelley is the editor and lead author at Crochet Calc. She works across the site's calculator math, reference articles, and editorial standards, focused on making professional-grade project planning accessible to crocheters at every skill level.

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