How to Crochet in the Round: Complete Guide for All Skill Levels

Crocheting in the round is one of the most useful skills you can develop, and yet many crocheters avoid it because the concept feels confusing at first. I understand: the idea of working in a circle instead of back-and-forth rows requires a mental shift. But once that shift clicks, an enormous world of projects opens up: hats, amigurumi, baskets, bags, mandalas, coasters, round blankets, socks, and mittens. Almost every 3D crochet project starts with working in the round.

There are two main approaches to crocheting in the round: spiral rounds and joined rounds. Each has specific uses, and understanding when to use each one will take your projects to the next level.

Starting Right: The Magic Ring

The magic ring (also called magic circle or adjustable ring) is the professional way to start any round project. Unlike the chain ring method (ch 4, sl st to join), the magic ring creates a center that can be pulled completely closed with no gap. Here is how: wrap yarn around your fingers to form a loop, insert hook through the loop, yarn over and pull up a starting loop, chain 1 (or chain 3 for double crochet), then work your first-round stitches into the center of the ring. When done, pull the yarn tail to close the ring tightly.

I insist on the magic ring with all my students. The chain ring method leaves a small hole in the center that weakens the fabric and looks unprofessional, especially in amigurumi where stuffing can peek through. The magic ring takes a few attempts to get comfortable with, but it is the standard technique used by professional crocheters worldwide.

Spiral Rounds vs Joined Rounds

Increasing for Flat Circles

To keep a circle flat, increase by the same number of stitches each round as you started with. For single crochet: start with 6 in a magic ring, increase by 6 per round. For double crochet: start with 12, increase by 12 per round. For half double crochet: start with 8, increase by 8 per round. Use our Circle Calculator for the complete round-by-round stitch count.

The critical technique for smooth circles (vs hexagons) is staggering your increases. Do NOT place increases directly above each other round after round. Instead, offset the increase position by one stitch every other round. This prevents the straight lines that create corners and hexagonal shapes.

Shaping with Rounds

Once you understand increasing in the round, decreasing creates shaped 3D forms. A hat starts as a flat circle (increasing rounds), then transitions to a tube (even rounds with no increases), then optionally decreases for a fitted brim. Amigurumi uses the same principle: increase for the widest point, work even for the body, then decrease to close.

The invisible decrease (inv dec) is a game-changer for amigurumi and hats. Instead of the standard decrease that leaves a visible gap, insert hook through the front loops only of two consecutive stitches, yarn over, pull through both front loops, yarn over, pull through both loops on hook. The result is a decrease that blends seamlessly into the surrounding stitches.

Common Problems When Crocheting in the Round

Work is twisting: After making your initial chain ring, make sure it is not twisted before joining. For foundation chains, lay the chain flat on a table and verify all chains face the same direction before joining the last chain to the first with a slip stitch.

Gaps at the beginning of joined rounds: When you chain up at the start of a joined round, a small gap often appears between the chain and the first stitch. To fix this, try the chainless starting stitch technique: instead of ch-3 for double crochet, pull up the loop on your hook to the height of a dc, yarn over, insert hook in the first stitch, and complete a normal dc.

Losing track of rounds in spiral: This is the most common problem. ALWAYS use a stitch marker in the first stitch of each round. Move it up as you complete each round. Some crocheters use a contrasting piece of yarn woven through the first stitch instead of a clip-on marker.