How to Block Crochet Projects: Every Method Explained Step-by-Step

Blocking is the finishing step that most crocheters skip and all professional crocheters swear by. It is the process of wetting, steaming, or spraying your finished crochet work, then shaping and pinning it while it dries. The transformation is dramatic: uneven edges become straight, curling corners lay flat, lace patterns open up to reveal their full beauty, and the entire piece looks polished and professional.

I block every project I make, and I can tell you that the before-and-after difference is often jaw-dropping. A lumpy, wavy granny square blanket becomes perfectly flat and squared. A lacey shawl that looked like a crumpled doily opens into an elegant, draped masterpiece. Blocking is not optional for quality work.

Blocking Methods Compared

Wet Blocking (Natural Fibers)

Fill a basin with lukewarm water and a few drops of mild soap or wool wash. Submerge your project completely and let it soak for 15-20 minutes without agitation. Lift the project out (support its weight so it does not stretch), and gently squeeze out excess water without wringing. Lay it on a clean towel, roll up the towel, and press to absorb more moisture. Unroll onto blocking mats, pin to shape using rust-proof T-pins every 2-3 inches, and leave flat until completely dry (usually 12-24 hours depending on climate).

Steam Blocking (Acrylic)

Acrylic does not respond to wet blocking the same way natural fibers do. Instead, use steam. Pin the project to blocking mats in the desired shape. Hold a steam iron or fabric steamer 1-2 inches above the surface and apply steam evenly across the entire piece. DO NOT touch the iron to the acrylic or it will melt. Let cool and dry completely before removing pins.

For a permanent finish on acrylic (called killing the acrylic), you can gently press a damp cloth on the fabric with a warm iron. This softens and relaxes the acrylic permanently, creating beautiful drape. Once killed, the shape is set and cannot be changed, so be certain of your dimensions first.

What to Block and What to Skip

Always block: Garments (sweaters, cardigans, dresses), lace shawls and doilies, granny square blankets (individual squares before joining), pieces that curl or wave.

Optional blocking: Scarves, dishcloths, baby blankets in acrylic (often unnecessary).

Never block: Amigurumi (destroys the firm, stuffed shape), chenille/velvet yarn items (ruins the texture), items with elastic components.

Blocking Equipment Essentials

Blocking mats: Interlocking foam floor tiles (available at hardware stores) work perfectly and cost about -20 for a set. Purpose-made blocking mats are gridded for easy measurement but cost 3-4 times more.

T-pins: Rust-proof stainless steel T-pins are essential. Regular sewing pins can rust and stain your work. A pack of 100 T-pins costs about and lasts forever.

Blocking wires: For straight edges on shawls and blankets, blocking wires threaded through the edge stitches create a perfectly straight line with fewer pins needed. A set costs -25.